Knitwear
How to Buy Cashmere That Lasts
Cashmere ranges wildly in quality, and price alone is an unreliable guide. Fibre length and thickness — not the label — decide whether a sweater softens with age or pills within weeks.
Grade and fibre length
Grade A cashmere uses long, fine fibres around 14 to 15.5 microns; Grade C can reach 30 microns and feels coarse after a few wears. Longer fibres stay locked in the yarn, which is why the best cashmere resists pilling. If a retailer cannot tell you the micron count, treat that as an answer.
Ply and gauge
Ply counts the strands twisted together; gauge counts stitches per inch. Two-ply is the sensible default for sweaters, four-ply and above for outerwear-weight knits. A single-ply cashmere may feel wonderfully light in the shop and lose its shape by spring.
The in-store tests
Stretch a small area and release it — good cashmere springs back. Rub the surface briskly with your palm; if fibres ball up immediately, they will do the same on your shoulder bag. Hold it to the light: dense, even knit beats airy and loose.
Care it properly
Hand wash in cool water with a wool detergent, press out the water without wringing, and dry flat. Never hang cashmere. Fold with cedar rather than mothballs, and rest a sweater a day or two between wears so fibres recover.
Before You Buy
- Ask for the micron count and grade
- Choose two-ply or heavier
- Do the stretch and rub tests
- Wash by hand and dry flat
Private Appointments
Personal sourcing, authentication and styling — by appointment only.
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